Melilot Blouse v.2 & Fit adjustments: Help!

Thanks for your comments on my last post about this pattern. Now for round 2: As mentioned in my previous post my plan was to crack the fit of this shirt and make multiple versions in Tana Lawn. My first version was generally good but I decided to do adjustments for forward shoulders and broad shoulders. I've made both before but not on a kimono sleeve, which is a little more difficult.

I used information from 'Fit for Real People':

This is how my pattern pieces look:
Piece added to armhole (left) plus bit added to back bodice (top) and taken away from the front bodice (bottom) along top of shoulder - as my shirt is short sleeved I decided to add to the edge instead of slash and spread. And the forward shoulder adjustment is as per the book though I think it looks a bit odd.

Here's my shirt from the back:
So it looks pretty good doesn't it? It's actually hard to see in these pictures but really annoyingly, the fit on this version is not as good as on my first version in viscose. Essentially the problem is wrinkles that run diagonally from the collar towards the armpit on both sides:
A better wrinkle picture:
The shirt bunches out in these areas and doesn't sit as nicely as the first version, and I'm not sure why. I know this area should have a bit of ease to allow for movement, but this seems like too much extra fabrics. There are three things different in this version compared to the last so let's see if they could be the cause of this:

1. Forward shoulder adjustment: In this I added to the back piece and took away from the front piece. That shouldn't have an effect but the book recommended I do it in a slightly weird scoop shape.

2. Broad shoulder adjustment: The book told me to slash and spread at the armpit on back AND front pieces and then true the seam. However, as the shirt had short sleeves, I opted to add to the end of the short sleeves. Could that have had some kind of negative effect?

3. Different fabric: The lawn is crisper than the viscose. Is it just a less forgiving fabric and therefore showing up a problem that wasn't previously noticeable?

However, could the wrinkles be related to my narrow upper chest? I often have to make this adjustment too (such as on numerous Grainline Scout tees) and I know from experience that a poor fit in that area is  much less noticeable when I use drapey fabric, so I can sometimes get away without doing this adjustment.The need to make the adjustment is more obvious on a rounded neckline, when it sits away from the body but perhaps the wrinkles show the need to do it for this bodice shape. Though the placement of the wrinkles maybe still suggests something shoulder related??

If there are any fit gurus reading, please help me out with this if you can - I really want to crack this pattern!

I'm also wondering if it would be possibly to do a fly adjustment on this shirt - if it would be possible to put in a dart as the fabric print is so busy that it would be hidden...maybe not though.
 
The fabric I used is Liberty Tana Lawn in design Jody - they have some at Abakhan, and it also comes in other colourways too. I really love the fabric, it's perfect for Spring. Perhaps a touch on the 'pyjama' side but I don't care.
I'm still hoping to make more of these shirts if I can work out this final fit issue. They are pretty different from the shapes of tops I usually wear but I'm enjoying the new look.

K x 

22 comments:

  1. Reading your fit issues I was astounded at how many of those I have to make too! I thought I was the only one :) I was also amazed when you mentioned the Grainline Scout - I just finished making another one of those in Liberty lawn and the chest was way too big (I had done a forward shoulder adjustment AND fba with darts - 3 darts!) but the chest and therefore neckline bulged and the shoulder seam was off and the sleeves draped off my shoulders. I was so frustrated by this point I practically vowed never to make it again then I had a thought - make another dart at the shoulder (in the centre) going down 6 inches to the chest and down the back about 2.5 inches and you know what? It worked to solve the problem! It isn't noticable in a flowered liberty anyway and the fit is now perfect :) But I'm still skeptical I will make this again.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad to hear you had success with your adjustment, I find shoulder fit really tricky but it's so key to a good fit overall

      Delete
    2. Kestrel Makes: Melilot Blouse V.2 And Fit Adjustments: Help! >>>>> Download Now

      >>>>> Download Full

      Kestrel Makes: Melilot Blouse V.2 And Fit Adjustments: Help! >>>>> Download LINK

      >>>>> Download Now

      Kestrel Makes: Melilot Blouse V.2 And Fit Adjustments: Help! >>>>> Download Full

      >>>>> Download LINK CN

      Delete
  2. Hello Kerry I think the style and fabric look great together :) But I also think these wrinkles are very characteristic of the sleeve type, I see them on many garments with non-set in sleeves regardless of proprotions! I have the opposite problem to you - narrow shoulders, larger bust - but two bloggers I like have a similar body type: Crab&Bee and LizaJane Sews. Both go into some detail on their blogs about shoulder alterations, it might be worth you taking a look around and also reading some of the advice in the comments section for LizaJane's shirt post (some months back now).

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, will have a look at those blogs x

      Delete
  3. I've never done a shoulder adjustment, so I'm not too sure. Why not go back to the drawing board and just try one adjustment at a time? Or even make an unadjusted version in a cotton lawn, just to compare to your first version? For what it's worth, I think this looks great, and I do think that kimono style sleeves just do tend to have more drag lines/wrinkles.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Helen - I'm going to try another muslin in cotton with an adjustment as the bunching and pulling isn't right. Fingers crossed!

      Delete
  4. If you wear the blouse and pinch out some of the excess and pin it, does it still have enough ease of wear? If so, pinch out that excess from the upper chest to nothing at the armhole on the pattern and see if that helps the problem.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Silvia, I'm going to put aside some time to play about with adjustments x

      Delete
  5. It looks a bit like you need a sloping shoulder adjustment to me. Lovely shirt though!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Cheers - I am going to look into this as it was also mentioned on Instagram and am thinking (hoping!) it might help!

      Delete
  6. It is a lovely blouse. Have you tried pinning up the excess at the shoulder? That might smooth out the wrinkles. Fabric is lovely and not like pjs at all. Xx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Cheers, am going to have another play about with the fit and try another muslin in cotton

      Delete
  7. I've got no idea about shirt adjustments sorry. I think it's lovely and the fact you've had to put big arrows to point out the issue indicates it's not noticeable really with the busy print.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Kathryn - it was really hard to show the problem but I think it was partly the busy print. It's probably wearable but I know that the fit is just a bit off and the bunching up isn't right. Hoping to spend some time and get it sorted out x

      Delete
  8. Hi Kerry! As I read and write here I'm wearing a dress made from Tana Lawn and I love it too! I can see why you want to nail this pattern as it just looks great on you. Here's my take on the creases. By making the adjustment shown in the book, you have made the angle of the shoulder going into the sleeve more acute. This means that when your 3D body goes into it, there isn't enough room any more, and the creases are a result of the shirt trying to expand, if that makes sense.. If you need more shoulder room, I would be inclined to make the wedge slash closer in to where the neckline is, on the straighter part, so the angle of the end of the shoulder is not changed, but you get a more gradual increase. Even as far as to cut the pattern from shoulder to hem, spread it evenly, then move the side seam in again. Or cut a right angle from shoulder to mid sleeve, slide the piece over a little then true up the sleeve ending. You may be able to fix this one by shaping the shoulder in a more gradual arc, then lowering the arm hole a little to put the room back in.
    All the best with sorting this.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for your thorough comment MrsC! Your description makes sense to me and I will be making another muslin so I can try this out x

      Delete
  9. Hi Kerry. Oh shoulders, how I battle with mine! I agree with MrsC above, the creases seem to be because your shoulders don't have enough room. It's like the shoulders are trying to find extra fabric and pulling up the armhole. Is it tight around your armpit? I think your broad shoulder adjustment should be that wedge to the armhole but also a wedge above at that point to accommodate your shoulder. This would make the angle less acute, like making room for your shoulder just further out. It is very slight in the diagram in the book but you could make yours a more pronounced wedge. You also mention adding to the front and removing from the back - is this for the forward shoulder?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Mosulli - yes, shoulders are THE TRICKIST to fit! Much easier to find out how to adjust for a small or large bust, shoulders are so hard. Anyway, I will be revisiting the pattern to rethink now to make room for my shoulders. To answer your questions, the blouse isn't particularly tight underarm and to make the forward shoulder adjustment I added to the back and took away from the front x

      Delete
  10. Oh I am so glad this is an adjustment I don't have to make. Shoulders are tricky. I sometimes make a second dart at the bust to avoid extra baggage at the front but shoulders? I have learnt a great deal. Jo x

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad it was helpful - shoulders are certainly something I find really hard!

      Delete
  11. Kestrel Makes: Melilot Blouse V.2 And Fit Adjustments: Help! >>>>> Download Now

    >>>>> Download Full

    Kestrel Makes: Melilot Blouse V.2 And Fit Adjustments: Help! >>>>> Download LINK

    >>>>> Download Now

    Kestrel Makes: Melilot Blouse V.2 And Fit Adjustments: Help! >>>>> Download Full

    >>>>> Download LINK

    ReplyDelete

Thanks for reading and commenting - I love to hear what you have to say