tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post1233366178104483494..comments2024-03-22T04:15:35.444+00:00Comments on Kestrel Makes: Melilot Blouse v.2 & Fit adjustments: Help!Kestrelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16984301306389767638noreply@blogger.comBlogger20125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-59127632792028222072017-04-18T10:08:21.489+01:002017-04-18T10:08:21.489+01:00Glad it was helpful - shoulders are certainly some...Glad it was helpful - shoulders are certainly something I find really hard!Kestrelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16984301306389767638noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-31152967071235687302017-04-12T17:01:54.541+01:002017-04-12T17:01:54.541+01:00Oh I am so glad this is an adjustment I don't ...Oh I am so glad this is an adjustment I don't have to make. Shoulders are tricky. I sometimes make a second dart at the bust to avoid extra baggage at the front but shoulders? I have learnt a great deal. Jo xJohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03668713514058875484noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-28295055336565124802017-04-11T10:34:49.332+01:002017-04-11T10:34:49.332+01:00Thanks Mosulli - yes, shoulders are THE TRICKIST t...Thanks Mosulli - yes, shoulders are THE TRICKIST to fit! Much easier to find out how to adjust for a small or large bust, shoulders are so hard. Anyway, I will be revisiting the pattern to rethink now to make room for my shoulders. To answer your questions, the blouse isn't particularly tight underarm and to make the forward shoulder adjustment I added to the back and took away from the front xKestrelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16984301306389767638noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-54204500250368563522017-04-11T10:31:21.387+01:002017-04-11T10:31:21.387+01:00Thanks for your thorough comment MrsC! Your descri...Thanks for your thorough comment MrsC! Your description makes sense to me and I will be making another muslin so I can try this out xKestrelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16984301306389767638noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-6764274048628610972017-04-10T17:26:21.054+01:002017-04-10T17:26:21.054+01:00Hi Kerry. Oh shoulders, how I battle with mine! I ...Hi Kerry. Oh shoulders, how I battle with mine! I agree with MrsC above, the creases seem to be because your shoulders don't have enough room. It's like the shoulders are trying to find extra fabric and pulling up the armhole. Is it tight around your armpit? I think your broad shoulder adjustment should be that wedge to the armhole but also a wedge above at that point to accommodate your shoulder. This would make the angle less acute, like making room for your shoulder just further out. It is very slight in the diagram in the book but you could make yours a more pronounced wedge. You also mention adding to the front and removing from the back - is this for the forward shoulder?Mosullihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07444869979568226740noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-68193019898918320522017-04-10T10:55:27.787+01:002017-04-10T10:55:27.787+01:00Hi Kerry! As I read and write here I'm wearing...Hi Kerry! As I read and write here I'm wearing a dress made from Tana Lawn and I love it too! I can see why you want to nail this pattern as it just looks great on you. Here's my take on the creases. By making the adjustment shown in the book, you have made the angle of the shoulder going into the sleeve more acute. This means that when your 3D body goes into it, there isn't enough room any more, and the creases are a result of the shirt trying to expand, if that makes sense.. If you need more shoulder room, I would be inclined to make the wedge slash closer in to where the neckline is, on the straighter part, so the angle of the end of the shoulder is not changed, but you get a more gradual increase. Even as far as to cut the pattern from shoulder to hem, spread it evenly, then move the side seam in again. Or cut a right angle from shoulder to mid sleeve, slide the piece over a little then true up the sleeve ending. You may be able to fix this one by shaping the shoulder in a more gradual arc, then lowering the arm hole a little to put the room back in.<br />All the best with sorting this.<br />MrsC (Maryanne)https://www.blogger.com/profile/14440723067459232998noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-79143230893263590282017-04-10T09:53:37.289+01:002017-04-10T09:53:37.289+01:00Thanks Kathryn - it was really hard to show the p...Thanks Kathryn - it was really hard to show the problem but I think it was partly the busy print. It's probably wearable but I know that the fit is just a bit off and the bunching up isn't right. Hoping to spend some time and get it sorted out xKestrelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16984301306389767638noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-77386408588324403872017-04-10T09:52:05.227+01:002017-04-10T09:52:05.227+01:00Cheers, am going to have another play about with t...Cheers, am going to have another play about with the fit and try another muslin in cotton Kestrelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16984301306389767638noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-75615627089563314212017-04-10T09:51:36.952+01:002017-04-10T09:51:36.952+01:00Cheers - I am going to look into this as it was al...Cheers - I am going to look into this as it was also mentioned on Instagram and am thinking (hoping!) it might help!Kestrelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16984301306389767638noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-64152403849987827402017-04-10T09:51:01.751+01:002017-04-10T09:51:01.751+01:00Thanks Silvia, I'm going to put aside some tim...Thanks Silvia, I'm going to put aside some time to play about with adjustments xKestrelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16984301306389767638noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-20375746996946067542017-04-10T09:49:07.337+01:002017-04-10T09:49:07.337+01:00Thanks Helen - I'm going to try another muslin...Thanks Helen - I'm going to try another muslin in cotton with an adjustment as the bunching and pulling isn't right. Fingers crossed!Kestrelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16984301306389767638noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-24809929891276862942017-04-10T09:48:23.693+01:002017-04-10T09:48:23.693+01:00Thanks, will have a look at those blogs xThanks, will have a look at those blogs xKestrelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16984301306389767638noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-12921857767287877962017-04-10T09:47:54.860+01:002017-04-10T09:47:54.860+01:00Glad to hear you had success with your adjustment,...Glad to hear you had success with your adjustment, I find shoulder fit really tricky but it's so key to a good fit overallKestrelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16984301306389767638noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-51748709246417593332017-04-09T20:16:32.078+01:002017-04-09T20:16:32.078+01:00I've got no idea about shirt adjustments sorry...I've got no idea about shirt adjustments sorry. I think it's lovely and the fact you've had to put big arrows to point out the issue indicates it's not noticeable really with the busy print. Kathrynhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05183395919767332073noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-90876170977222884902017-04-09T10:01:53.666+01:002017-04-09T10:01:53.666+01:00 It is a lovely blouse. Have you tried pinning up ... It is a lovely blouse. Have you tried pinning up the excess at the shoulder? That might smooth out the wrinkles. Fabric is lovely and not like pjs at all. XxMother of Reinventionhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14409826036412353940noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-15377815344716488232017-04-08T08:19:04.770+01:002017-04-08T08:19:04.770+01:00It looks a bit like you need a sloping shoulder ad...It looks a bit like you need a sloping shoulder adjustment to me. Lovely shirt though!monkeysockshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13585860927875638867noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-16360789130067054422017-04-08T03:56:45.440+01:002017-04-08T03:56:45.440+01:00If you wear the blouse and pinch out some of the e...If you wear the blouse and pinch out some of the excess and pin it, does it still have enough ease of wear? If so, pinch out that excess from the upper chest to nothing at the armhole on the pattern and see if that helps the problem.Silviahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14629832910418275943noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-92092688053119574772017-04-07T21:35:21.297+01:002017-04-07T21:35:21.297+01:00I've never done a shoulder adjustment, so I...I've never done a shoulder adjustment, so I'm not too sure. Why not go back to the drawing board and just try one adjustment at a time? Or even make an unadjusted version in a cotton lawn, just to compare to your first version? For what it's worth, I think this looks great, and I do think that kimono style sleeves just do tend to have more drag lines/wrinkles. Helenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06525020848581000170noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-82661448452490783132017-04-07T20:31:28.110+01:002017-04-07T20:31:28.110+01:00Hello Kerry I think the style and fabric look grea...Hello Kerry I think the style and fabric look great together :) But I also think these wrinkles are very characteristic of the sleeve type, I see them on many garments with non-set in sleeves regardless of proprotions! I have the opposite problem to you - narrow shoulders, larger bust - but two bloggers I like have a similar body type: Crab&Bee and LizaJane Sews. Both go into some detail on their blogs about shoulder alterations, it might be worth you taking a look around and also reading some of the advice in the comments section for LizaJane's shirt post (some months back now).Philippahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05979470577235630724noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842269580728258816.post-4942217008802929492017-04-07T15:43:58.365+01:002017-04-07T15:43:58.365+01:00Reading your fit issues I was astounded at how man...Reading your fit issues I was astounded at how many of those I have to make too! I thought I was the only one :) I was also amazed when you mentioned the Grainline Scout - I just finished making another one of those in Liberty lawn and the chest was way too big (I had done a forward shoulder adjustment AND fba with darts - 3 darts!) but the chest and therefore neckline bulged and the shoulder seam was off and the sleeves draped off my shoulders. I was so frustrated by this point I practically vowed never to make it again then I had a thought - make another dart at the shoulder (in the centre) going down 6 inches to the chest and down the back about 2.5 inches and you know what? It worked to solve the problem! It isn't noticable in a flowered liberty anyway and the fit is now perfect :) But I'm still skeptical I will make this again.PsychicSewerKathleenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06911914507722968930noreply@blogger.com