Photograph by Clifford Coffin for British Vogue, June 1947, at Grosvenor Square, London
Evening dress by Rahvis
I first saw this photograph in the V&A book edited by Claire Wilcox, The Golden Age of Couture, Paris and London 1947-57. It appears in the first chapter of the book and I can say that it really took my breath away.
Apart from the fact it looks so modern it could have been taken yesterday, not 65 years ago, it sends such a strong, defiant message. Taken only 2 years after the end of the Second World War, when Britain was struggling to recover from the Blitz, it sends a strong message that Britain and British fashion would not be defeated.
I love the contrast of the exquisitely draped evening gown with the model carefully standing on a piece of white paper. The bomb-damaged surroundings look as if they might collapse around her at any second - look at those dangling pieces of wood at the ceiling!
When I did a bit of research on Rahvis, the makers of the gown, I discovered that it was a fashion house based on Grosvenor Street in London, just adjacent to Grosvenor Square, where this photograph was taken.
It could be argued that it was distasteful for couture fashion houses to resume making such fashion, only available to the elite, at a time when the country was suffering so badly. But I think that this photograph is a perfect example of how fashion can be a source of pride.
What do you think?
K x
It really is a stunning and very moving image actually. Thanks so much for sharing, I'm very interested in seeing more of that book now!
ReplyDeleteA lovely image, also a defiant anti-rationing quantity of fabric in that skirt.
ReplyDeleteWhat would 'elf 'n safety think of those dangling beams..... Those were the days!
That's a great photograph. I also love all the textures of the wall and the black and white starkness of it -- it makes it very dramatic.
ReplyDeleteWow! Love this - she looks a bit like a candle flame against the ruined building. Thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteThat is a spectacular photo
ReplyDeleteBeauty amongst the rubble. To me that photo epitomizes my idea of creating beautiful things in our not so perfect world. Thank you for sharing such a stunning photograph! Shari
ReplyDeletei think the contrast makes it very beautiful
ReplyDeleteWhat a great photo! Thank you so much for sharing this!
ReplyDeleteIt's a beautiful photo!
ReplyDeleteI do not think an artist would be criticized for creating larger than life painting at a time when paint is scarce. So why should a Couture house be judged for continuing to create garments that are the equivalent to a work of art? Just because Couture is expensive, does not mean it is profitable and used as a source for revenue. Couture is a way for true artisans to flex their skills and use the finest materials available to them. Nowadays it is used almost solely for the purpose of advertisement. I'm guessing that even after WW2 that there would still be Couture customers, but not as many. Materials materials were harder to come by, but this made it even more special. Couture is the "frosting" of fashion, colorful and decorative, whereas ready to wear is the cake- substantial and tasteful. We all need that taste of frivolity and fancy, especially at a time when life was very serious.
Wow, that's just gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteVery interesting. One could *at least* make the argument that people should continue working, even if their occupations were in fashion!
ReplyDeleteI think it's a beautiful thought provoking picture - like a pheonix rising from the ashes. A defiant stand against the destruction. At that time I think the 'new look' was criticised widely for its extravagant use of fabric but once it was adopted by the Queen it became acceptable. I am not too sure but seem to remember it was considered 'good' for the country - fabric manufacture maybe and I am certain that the clothes would have been made in this country so it would have provided work to many. A brave and beautiful picture on many levels I think.
ReplyDeleteWow, I absolutely thought this was a modern photograph, it's amazing that it's so timeless and hauntingly so. It does look like a statement, despite the devastation, we are still strong. Thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteBeautiful picture! You're right, it looks so modern - amazing.
ReplyDeleteIt's truly awesome. I get chills looking out it, imagining the post-war destruction that would still have been all around.
ReplyDeleteI've just found your blog and read the post(5thAug?) where you say how much you hate setting in sleeves. I don't know how you do it but , in case this helps: don't sew up the side seams first, but attach the sleeve to the top and then sew the side seam up the sleeve and down the bodice.It give more room to work on the tricky bit of the curve. Sorry to be obvious if you do this anyway.
ReplyDeleteIt's a beautiful photograph and the dress is stunning! Of course, people could argue that money could have been better spent in reconstructing houses and making sure everyone could eat, but the fashion industry is part of all this reconstruction and also helped many to work (seamstresses, etc.)
ReplyDeleteWhat a stunning photograph, I love the contrast. Perhaps the photo was somewhat intended to inspire hope. That something beautiful could emerge from something so terrible.
ReplyDeletePhotography doesn't mean you're just gonna take pictures of the beautiful places. There's something more about it. Capturing a story, mystery, and all that. Nice photography by the way.
ReplyDelete