Let's talk about EASE

My favourite type of patterns to sew from are vintage patterns from the major pattern companies - Simplicity, New Look, McCalls etc. While some of the methods might be out of date (like zips in knit fabric), I like the assurance that the are designed from a standard pattern block and will fit fairly close to the stated body measurements. I usually sew a size 16 in a 1970s pattern, for a 36" bust and 30-31" waist.

I approach indie patterns with some caution if I don't know what type of shape they are drafted for, or don't trust the drafting skill. As for modern patterns from the big companies, the main problem is ease. Here's an example:

These Simplicity 1887 trousers:

The size chart puts me in a size 16 (for waist and hip which are obviously most important here):

There are some finished garment measurements on the packet but crucially, not bust or waist:

Instead you have to know to look at the pattern tissue where it states this:

8 inches of ease. EIGHT INCHES. Plus, it's not even exact, but approximate. Does this mean that there will be 8 inches of ease in the waistband, or a bit less there?

My response was to cut the size 10 instead, based on this figure of around 8" of extra ease. I basted the leg pieces together to check fit and it was fine. When I basted the waistband, which is elasticated at the back, I could tell that it would be a bit of a tight fit getting it over my hips, so I ripped out the side seams to re-sewed with a minimal seam allowance, probably closer to the size 12. This was a good fit - I'll share the trousers in my next post - but I'm glad that I knew to be very vigilent about the issue of ease. It's worth noting that there are two types of ease: wearing ease (that lets you moved and breathe) and design ease (that contribute to the style of the garment e.g. a loose fitting, oversized shirt). It's not made clear in patterns how much overall ease can be attributed to each type.

I've just started another project using a contemporary Vogue pattern. Going by the finished measurements (again, only seen on the pattern tissue) cutting a 16 is about right, though I may need to come down to the 14 in some aspects. So, while ease has been included, the amount is not as great as the 8" from Simplicity - so there is not even a similarity between pattern companies.

So who benefits from this habit of including huge amounts of ease? Is it a vanity thing to keep in line with modern ready to wear clothing measurements? I am usually about a 12 in shop bought clothing. If that is the case, the amount of ease needs to be stated more clearly on the packet. This could help someone buy the correct size more easily, if the range of sizes is split across two size ranges, but crucially, knowing what size your garment is going to end up is key to a successful project.

Happily my trousers worked out well (post coming soon) but this is such a frustrating issue, with a real lack of clarity surrounding it, that primarily serves to make things more challenging for users of contemporary patterns.

K x