Pages

Wednesday, 5 April 2017

Finished: Deer & Doe Melilot Blouse v.1 & Thoughts on Indie Patterns


I don't have a single buttoned shirt in my wardrobe.They're something I have avoided making as I don't work in the kind of workplace that requires 'proper' work attire like shirts/blouses, hate setting in sleeves and my broad shoulders mean that I have issues getting a good fit on a shirt.

However this pattern really appealed to me for a number of reasons:
Pattern
Deer & Doe Mélilot Blouse- I made short sleeved version B with the collar of version A and without pockets.

Reason for pattern choice
This is really similar in shape to the New Look Maudella shirt/shirtdress pattern I recently made and loved, but I preferred the collar on this pattern and it also is more shaped, with bust darts and a full button placket instead of a partial one. It is also really similar to a RTW shirt a friend wore recently that I admired. This version is a wearable muslin, made with the hope that I could make multiple versions in all the Liberty Tana lawn I have but don't know what to make with it (terrible problem to have, I know). Also, the pattern is pretty flipping pricey so I intend to make the most of it by making multiple versions.

Fabric & Notions
I used a heart print viscose, bought on eBay a few months ago from the Textile Centre. The hearts are white and mint green - it's hard to tell from these photos.
Pattern alterations or any design changes
None - I made a straight size but added the collar and omitted the pockets as it's a wearable muslin and I don't really think they are required.

How was it to sew?
Well, the instructions were not really as clear as I would have liked. The shirt can be made with a concealed button placket and I found that a combination of unclear text instructions with unclear markings on the pattern pieces made for a confusing experience. I actually emailed Deer & Doe to check what was intended - they replied quickly and the matter was cleared up, but I think the instructions could be clearer.

I also accidentally sewed the buttonholes horizontally instead of vertically - despite the markings on the pattern pieces and even thinking that the placket was pretty narrow as I was sewing them the wrong way. Duh. I was dreading sewing all those buttonholes as I've wrestled with these in the past but my machine was co-operating so it was fine.

Would you sew it again and do anything different next time?
I'll definitely make it again (actually already have - watch out for the blog post soon!). I will do a small forward shoulder adjustment and also some kind of broad shoulder adjustment - both adjustments that I have made before. The fit is pretty good but would benefit from more room for my shoulders. As I traced the pattern it will be easy to adjust my traced pieces too. I might add a single pocket or two pockets to a future version.
 Debut wear in the glamorous location of work toilet

Would you recommend it to others?
For sure - but watch out for those instructions

Cost
Fabric    £8
Pattern   £17.40 (including postage)
Buttons  £4
(Already had black thread and interfacing)

TOTAL  £29.40

Conclusion
I'm pleased with this version, and might also try the long sleeve version too. It's a great smart casual style  (although that phrase makes me think of this Limmy sketch:)
I don't buy very many patterns by indie pattern makers these days. I've mostly been making vintage patterns or sometimes Big 4, which I usually buy cheaply in sales. The reason for this is that I find Indie patterns to be expensive and that not many are worth shelling out for unless they offer something genuinely different from styles I can find in vintage and modern patterns. So yes, being cheap plays a role but also being a savvy shopper, I like to think!

This pattern was similar to something I had made before but it was the collar and the shaping that sold it for me, and if I do make a few versions it will be well worth it. Could I have drafted a collar myself and made placket amendments then added to the other similar pattern I already had? Probably, yes. However it would have taken time and probably some trial and error. In this case, I felt it was worth paying the money to have that work done for me. I'm really pleased with my blouse and hope it will become a pattern I can make in multiple.

K x

24 comments:

  1. I was really interested to read this Kerry. I've had this pattern traced out for a while now, but like you, the idea of sewing up a shirt and all that entails (esp buttonholes!) has put me off. I think I should just do it! Interested to see that you didn't add any length - are you happy with the length as drafted, or might add some length for future iterations?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I was happy with the length as is, I think it is designed to be long in any case and the back is a bit longer than the front.

      Delete
  2. That pattern just sailed through my e-mail this morning. I had a problem with a Deer and Doe pattern in the past. They are great getting back to you, but their instructions were hard to decipher at some point. The shirt looks great. I'm tempted to buy the pattern now. The smart/casual video had me laughing. Thanks for a happy start to my day :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad you liked the video :) This is the first D&D pattern I've tried (though I also have the Belladone) and I couldn't work out the issue by looking at other versions online so glad they were good at getting back to clear up my query.

      Delete
  3. Thanks for the review Kerry, it looks lovely and I'm sure once you've tweaked the shoulders you'll be getting your money's worth with lots more versions. This pattern was on my #2017makenine list but I was also feeling cheap and decided to go for a shirt pattern I've made before instead! x

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Cheers - I can definitely see you in this shape too x

      Delete
  4. The shirt looks great on you, Kerry. I love the fabric you chose.
    I've never used a modern pattern(yet!) xxx

    ReplyDelete
  5. This looks great Kerry!! I love the shoulders on this shirt & I was kind of tempted to buy it to make as my first shirt but if the instructions aren't fully clear then I'm thinking I should just try one I have first - the grainline archer & a vintage pattern. i can't wait to see your next version!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yeah the sleeves swung it for me as I hate setting in sleeves!

      Delete
  6. Your shirt your shirt looks really pretty - I've seen a few versions of this pattern now, and liked them all. It would look fabulous in Liberty print too, I am sure. Regarding 'indie' patterns - I learnt to sew using traditional patterns and they are just so comfortable and familiar for me to use. I try to see past the sometimes awful fabric and styling choices. The indie patterns I've used so far are updated basics, which makes them better value because I use them repeatedly (I love Ottobre magazine for these too).

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Big 4 patterns can definitely be off potting in terms of styling but I've come to prefer them for classic shapes because I know that they are drafted on a more traditional block, compared to some indie patterns

      Delete
  7. Perhaps we could start a support group for people who compulsively buy Liberty Tana lawn but then don't know what to make with it (not that I know anyone with this problem, oh no).

    I really like this, especially the collar. I'm also seriously impressed that you managed so many buttonholes - my machine would start to sulk after about 2½.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I was impressed too - my machine has been known to be uncooperative about loads of buttonholes

      Delete
  8. I made this from some gorgeous Italian rayon I splurged on from Britex and mine is a hot mess. I think I messed up something with the short sleeve cuffs. It's super tight across the shoulder and arms so I shall have to look at it again since I've had great luck with Deer&Doe patterns. I shall not use nice material again though!

    Your version looks great and you can always get more utility from the pattern by lengthening it to a dress or tunic for warmer temps.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. A dress version would be great - that's really frustrating about your version, I still have some fit adjustments to make to mine too

      Delete
  9. It looks great! I have also had it cut out for ages, but the shirt front confused me. I know I have to have one longer than the other but now I'm not sure if I cut the correct side longer. I've done it successfully when making Archer shirts but this one has me doubting myself. I really should get it sewn up as I can see myself wearing it in lots of different fabrics.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Stevie - yes it was where to cut and apply the interfacing on the shirt front that had me scratching my head

      Delete
  10. This looks great on you, and the fabric is lovely. I was scratching my head with the covered placket instructions too, and ended up winging it. It turned out ok, but I find Deer and Doe pattern instructions a bit scant, which is annoying given their price.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I would like to try the covered placket too, it's a nice feature. I wasn't even sure where the interfacing was to applied but once I got past that it was fine

      Delete
  11. very nice! I need to pull my finger out and look at my muslin again, so I can make up the real thing....

    ReplyDelete
  12. Hello, I saw and replied to the second version before seeing this one. I would add that your rayon will have far more "give" in it than tana lawn so that may explain why the issues have arisen more with the second one. But gosh it is a great style on you!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, I really love the style too, so am determined to get it fitting!

      Delete

Thanks for reading and commenting - I love to hear what you have to say