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Sunday, 6 January 2013

FO: The Sewing Bloggers' Skirt


Before I review this skirt, can I just ask, WTF is going on with modern pattern sizing? I make modern patterns from the Big 4 companies only rarely, but previous experience has told me that they have a generous amount of ease. Judging by my measurements I should have cut a size 16 for this skirt but since I knew it would come out massive and had bought the 6-12 size pattern anyway, I was just going to have to make a 12 and hope for the best. According to the packet, a size 12 is for a 26.5" waist - what utter nonsense.

Rather stupidly for a skirt pattern, the finished sizes on the outside of the packet do not include the finished waist measurement, only the finished hip and length. It is only when you look at the pattern pieces do you see that one of them says that there are 5 and a half inches of ease. FIVE AND A HALF INCHES. This is insanity. And at least could Simplicity put that on the outside of the packet so a less experienced seamstress might buy the right size and not slave over a skirt that turns out enormous?? 


It seems that vintage patterns and modern independent pattern companies do not build in this frankly insane amount of ease so why do the Big 4? Is it vanity sizing?


Anyway, rant over and back to the skirt: 


Pattern Used 

Simplicity 2491. I made view D, the shortest length version.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I liked the shapes of at least two of the skirt types, and that they had pockets.

Fabric & Notions
I used a navy printed cotton drill that I got from Laura: in a Tangle at the Knicker Blogger Glory Meet Up in September last year, plus white piping bought at Mood in New York when I met up with bloggers there.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made 
I made the shortest version but added just over an inch to the length and did a teeny hem to make it longer again. I also added piping to below the waistband and the pockets to emphasise the shapes of the skirt.
 
Would you sew it again and do anything different next time? 
Yes I would sew it again and next time I wouldn't mess up the waistband as I did on this one (you can see the side seams of waistband and skirt are not aligned). I would try one of the other views too. 


Did you use any new techniques?
No

Would you recommend the pattern to others? 
Yes, if you're one of the few people who hasn't already made it! It's a really versatile pattern.
 
Cost
Can't remember how much the pattern cost, fabric was free and other notions had a minimal cost. 


Conclusion
This really is a"sewing bloggers'" skirt - made using a pattern frequently used by bloggers using fabric and notions obtained during meet ups. I can see myself making more of these in the future, for sure. I think it's a fun and practical skirt and it is very similar to Sewaholic's Crescent Skirt and I have made 2 of those, which I love. Stupid sizing aside, it's a great pattern.

K x


p.s I hope I have correctly apostrophised the name of the skirt - I mean it to be like 'the skirt of all the sewing bloggers' er, if that makes sense?!

34 comments:

  1. Love this skirt, your piping is excellent. Now I understand why everything I make turns out far too big! It has put me off garment sewing actually and I've been making other things. Perhaps I will attempt it again and factor the ridculous amount of ease into what I make from now on, oh, and start making a muslin which is something I never do. Do you make muslins of each pattern before you make it? x

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    1. Thank you Em, and glad this was helpful. I usually do a bodice muslin if I'm making a dress but skirts are easier to fit, in theory, since it's just the waist you need to think about. It's definitely worth checking the finished garment measurements against your measurements, or an item you know fits well. Good luck!

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  2. Five and a half inches of ease??? Crazy!
    Love the skirt.

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  3. The skirt looks great - imagine if you had made the size 16 - ridiculous! Agree that modern patterns have stupid sizing, but RTW clothing is the same, I have stuff in my closet from size 8-14 - crazy.
    BTW your apostrophes are just fine :)

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    1. True, sizes do vary from shop to shop. Thanks for apostrophe clarification :-)

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  4. Your skirt is lovely, the piping really sets it off. I so hear you about the sizing! I've made this pattern, and another Simplicity pattern which is similar, and the sizing is sheer madness!

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  5. As far as I know Simplicity sizing has been crazy for 40 years! I made a dress in 1971( shock admission) and had to take in the side seams a ridiculous amount. I have been avoiding them as much as possible ever since. I had to take in the waist of my versions of this skirt, and am not really happy with the fit; it moves around too much.You have made a lovely skirt, I like the piping.

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  6. I can't believe I still don't own this pattern. It's great! I'll remember your thoughts on ease...

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  7. This is so interesting for me, because I had the opposite problem with this pattern! I haven't made it up yet, but when I went to trace off the pattern, I went with a size 10, thinking "that's my size in Big 4." But the pieces looked awfully small, and when I went back and measured the pattern pieces, I realized I really needed a 12! Tracing this pattern was one of the things that made me realize I need to measure the pattern pieces Every. Single. Time.

    At any rate, it worked out: your skirt is super cute!

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  8. Glad to see that fabric put to good use! I love your skirt. I have that pattern too but in the larger sizes. Am wondering what size to use, five inches of ease, on a skirt, that's mental!!!

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    1. Thanks for the fabric! Good luck with your version of the pattern too.

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  9. This looks so cute on you! I love it! I keep meaning to make up this pattern and keep getting sidetracked. I'm wondering if the pattern has extra ease because it's supposed to sit a little lower on the hips? Strange, either way!

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  10. I have that pattern already set up to make it D, although I hate the starting of a project! I have just 'done' skirts in my pattern cutting class, so laid my block on top of the pattern which indicated that I need cut 2 sizes down from the size I would normally cut. I don't get this need for excess ease at all...

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  11. What a cute skirt, it looks so wearable...casual yet smart! That amount of ease is ridiculous, I don't get why!?!

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  12. Holy smokes, I'm currently hemming my version of this skirt RIGHT NOW. Yours is way cuter; I had some...issues. Yours gives me hope that I could try it again with better results!

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  13. Great skirt! I've just made my second version of this skirt and you're right, the sizing it totally crazy! Still like the skirt though.

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  14. Well your skirt turned out cute and you've got nice legs and should wear short (not that this is short) skirts! I hope you wore a red cardie with that and went out for lunch or something.

    When using the big 4 patterns it's easier to look at the finished measurements on the pattern tissue (why such an unhandy place to put that crucial info?) or just measuring the pattern and key points (bootay) and figuring out the size that way. Clearly someone new to sewing would become totally disillusioned making a tent and stop sewing, right?

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    1. Definitely, it would be very disheartening.

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  15. 5.5" ease is unwearable in a skirt! It'd just fall straight off... I have to admit to always going with finished measurement sizes and that often takes my size at least two sizes down than my measurements suggest. Sigh, it's a small ego boost but the numbers are still the numbers no matter how they're 'organised'!
    It's a very cute skirt and looks great on you, the fabric is gorgeous!

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  16. I was explaining this very thing to my daughter the other day. She is getting back into sewing after taking a 6 year break. I told her to pay attention to the finished garment measurements. But like it's been said, sometimes they are there, and sometimes they are not. The skirt is really cute and looks nice on you. I really had to squint to see the seam issue. I honestly don't think someone would ever notice.

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  17. This is ridiculously cute! I had the exact same problem with this skirt and its ease. I ended up using the smallest size in the packet and grading down. When I first tried sewing as a teenager I remember making a top following the suggested size and it turned out fine except it was three sizes too big. I thought it was my fault for being a lame sewist and didn't try and sew again for another 12 years. I shake my fist at you big 4!

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    1. I had the same thing happen. Like 3 times. But I gave up on American patterns instead of giving up on sewing XD And that worked out well for me XDXD

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  18. Love the pretty fabric, cute style too. I had a modern pattern for pj bottoms and it only gave hip measurements too, a total faff when trying to work out what size my brother would be! In the end I just made the biggest ones and they were too big... Think I'd seriously mess up your skirt pattern, I always use minimal seam allowances (about half an inch), that's how i was taught at college :)

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  19. I had the same issue with this skirt. I assumed I had to grade up, as I usually do, and ended up having to take it in by loads. It still needs to be taken in a bit more so it's barely wearable.

    Glad you made yours work. Your skirt came out great. I own that fabric and find it super adorable so of course I'm a fan of the skirt :)

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  20. It's not ease. It's stupidity. Also size-toadying. And it drives me nuts. It's what fast fashion ready to wear companies use to keep their customers sweet-marking a size 14 as a size 8 etc. It's awful because no body really believes it in the real world and what's worse,
    1. As sewists we know our size (i.e. measurements) don't need to be patronised to
    2. It's a massive waste of $-going by the measurements on the back of the envelope has lead to my having bought a sh*tload of patterns in the wrong size (i.e. 6 sizes too large). They don't let you look at the finished measurements at the shop (sorry you can't open the pattern) and once you get home it's too late XS I hate it and it's why I don't buy McCalls (and now New Look) any more. I rarely buy Vogue or Simplicity either (made some exceptions for the designer patterns from the former and the amazing fit patterns from the latter). I bought some New Look patterns online last week and the 'ease' was between 6 and 11 (yup) inches at the bust -for knit patterns (no the garment on model on the cover doesn't have anywhere near that amount of 'ease). *sigh* I'll be sticking to consistently sized and well fitting magazine patterns in future, yea it requires tracing but it always fits the way it should.

    And I love that skirt on you the piping is very pretty-it's one of the few envelope patterns I've sewn (for the above reasons) and it's pretty well drafted once you take into account all the bad ease/incorrect measurement listing crap... XS

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  21. Cute skirt :) That ease is ridiculous! I always make a size or two smaller in big four now too - it's so annoying when it's huge...

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  22. Totally feel your pain on the mega-ease issue (which ironically takes the ease out of fitting, lol). But you got a great result... Us sewing bloggers should write a massive open letter to these companies, eh!

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  23. Oooh freaky, I was thinking of sewing this soon. Thanks so much for your review, especially for the sizing info.

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  24. Ugh, I really don't understand the sizing. I rarely make the Big 4, and am rarely tempted because of that fact.
    However, your end is product is very cute. The style is great, as is the piping.

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  25. starting to feel like i'm one of only a handful of people who don't have this pattern :) I have a Crescent, though, that I am very happy with. Nice make!!

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  26. This is a great skirt, I've not seen this pattern before (am I the only one?). I really like the piping, something I'd like to try and a skirt is a good place to start me thinks! Another successful make Kerry despite the sizing issues!

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  27. Skirt is fab - I think the white piping really defines the shape, great move. I had all sorts of trouble with the sizing when I first started sewing - items were coming up enormous. Now I just make the 10 (I'm normally a 12 in shops) and that tends to be fine. Madness.

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